Sooting the cavities is a short cut to this in the beginning but becomes redundant as the mould breaks in, Lee recommend it in their mould instructions which is a very good reason for not doing it to my mind. With the heating and cooling the metal "seasons", I have been told it oxidises but do not know that for a fact, you get the same effect just using the mould to cast with but bullet drop can be sticking 'till the cavities get there but once the cavities have been broken in by heating and cooling then they run just fine. I also add sprue plate lube sparingly to the mould alignment pins, bottom of the sprue plate/top of the mould apply and the wipe off, sprue plate screw, handle screws and thermometer screws before heating and touch up a couple of times during the heating cycle, this saves me doing it whilst casting and get the bearing metal parts well treated with lube to stop galling. What I do do is heat the mould up to casting temperature say 450 degrees and let it cool and do this cycle at least half a dozen times, I just sit the mould on top of the cast iron stove in the living room for a few days and the job is done. I never soot the cavities of my moulds, in fact the only thing I will put in the cavities is molten alloy.
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